When we kicked off our popular Ask The Expert series early last year we did so with the help of the talented minds at KW Automotive. We had a huge response to that particular suspension-based Q&A, so we thought we’d do it all over again!
That said, if you have a performance suspension-related question, now is the time to ask it. Perhaps you’d like to know what the real-world differences between cheap coilovers and high-quality coilovers are, or how to select the ideal spring rates for your application. Maybe you’d like to learn more about custom valving, or the ins and outs of compression and rebound adjustability and how to best set shocks up.
To participate, simply post your question/s below in the comments section. Next week we’ll hand them over to KW who will select a bunch to answer in an upcoming post. Easy as that!
Brad Lord
brad@speedhunters.com
OFFICIAL SPEEDHUNTERS SUPPLIERS
Well, I do have a question - where all our questions from previous post had been answered?
We took our time and put them and we didn't see anything since.
If I were to bother again, I won't ask the KW why are the prices so high or why I can't buy lowering springs for my Soarer any more......I would ask what are they doing there beside business as usual?
They work on innovating something or we will have same spring of steel and that damper with oil or gas and smart valve to modify how low and how strong I want my setup?
Anything new?
I'd like to know about your smart phone controlled adjustable suspension, what sort of hight differences are possible with it and how does it stand up to track use?
How/where can I get coilovers for a 1985 Toyota Celica ?
The smart phone controlled adjustable suspension, is it available for S13? And why do you think is the reason only you and K-sport Germany makes TÜV approved coilovers for the S13?
What is the difference between KW Variant 1, Variant 2, Variant 3 and Sleeve kit?
In terms of balance, is using stiff springs and soft dampers the same as using strong dampers and soft springs?
A lot of tuners try use the argument that stiffer suspension is better for performance, so they'll ride around in the daily drivers getting beat up and down by an unnecessarily harsh ride in order to have the performance when they need it.
All the while Porsches and Corvettes ride very comfortable and corner better.
When building a daily-livable street car, what do you think the suspension focus should be?
greenroadster http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/06/ask-the-expert-kw-answers-your-questions/
Street cars need to be able to handle that pothole you couldn't avoid, so what quality of a suspension unit (I'm interested in coilovers) would be indicative that it is able to deal with a tough life?
ChristianSchmidt greenroadster
Answers from Reichman at Aston Martin: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/05/you-ask-aston-martin-answer-marek-reichman/
Answers from Takata: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/06/takata-ask-the-expert-answers/
Answers from CSF: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/06/csf-race-ask-the-expert-answers/
Answers from Kei Miura: http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/05/inside-the-mind-of-kei-miura/
How do strut tower braces and sway bars fit in to a complete suspension plan? Will they help performance without causing a much stiffer ride or would it be better to replace a factory suspension with an aftermarket one?
I notice you do not offer KW Variant 3 Coilovers for the R33 Nissan Skyline GT-R. I've had them on my Ford Fiesta, now my Honda S2000, do you intend to offer them for the R33 GT-R or would you consider it?
Are you using regressive damping, or are you planing to go for it? Discuss about some of the advantages you see in different damping styles.
For a competitive drift car specifically, is it better to run a softer spring rate? Also what about softer dampening ect. What's the range as far as getting the most grip?
I'm running 2hz suspension frequency with a 800lb rear coilover spring in my c5z autocross application. Rear is about 5% stiffer than the front. I attached the shock dyno for my double adjustables. I've read about critical damping, but how can I determine which clicks to start with as a baseline from my dyno curves? I'd love to get on a shaker rig, but can't afford it. Is there any other method I can use to arrive at the optimal setting?
Lastly, the new Z28 comes with dynamic spool valve shocks. It's said they can adjust the curves more independently of each other. Is it possible or even desired to flatline the forces after a certain in/sec. number and how quickly can they ramp up forces at low velocities?
Hi, Would you able to build a Coilover kit, for the likes of a Toyota AW11 MR2 (possible adapting/using one of your sets for the ZZW30 MR2 Roadster, or SW20?.
Hope you can reply
I have a 1989 Honda CRX that I have converted to front engine/ rear wheel drive layout (470rwhp). Because of this swap I've had to move the rear suspension inboard. I would like to know what spring rate ratio (front to rear) I should be aiming for since I will now require a bit softer wheel rate in the rear end. Currently there is no sway bar front or back and I'm using 300lb springs all around. I intend to track the car in time attack. Any input is greatly appreciated!
I remember Chris Harris commenting that the reason so many modern cars have stiff 'sporty' suspension is because OEM dampers are relatively cheap and so stiffer springs are easier to control - or even that the stiffer springs are almost making up for the poor dampers and controlling the chassis movement.
Care to comment?
I am also interested to know how a firm such as Alpina can provide low (for OEM) ride but also decent ride quality and control. Presumably it's the inverse of the above point.
Is there a standard metric for comparing 'ride'? Obviously spring rate is only part of the story and the mass if the vehicle must play a part along with the dampers themselves..??
Finally how low is too low? I understand KW have worked with a company in Buckinghamshire (England!) to offer decent ride with a very low ride height. How? Or is it not true!
Hello, I am currently building a Corsa VXR/OPC that I want to use too compete with in the next 3/4 year's in a series such as the UK Time Attack and so far the suspension minus a few polybushes and chassis braces is standard. My options are AST fully adjustable coilovers or KW V2 or V3, due to the prices I would prefer to purchase a set of V2 because of what your company offers and it's more than a basic coilover allowing me to learn how the difference in rebound actually adjusts the drivability and characteristics of the car. Would the better idea be to save that little more for a set of V3 or just spend that little less and learn to drive the car without the better product from yourselves or is there a way of purchasing V2 and once I get to the stage of wanting more from my suspension due to experience and knowledge then I could send my V2's to be modified into V3's? And why don't you offer clubsport for the Corsa application?
HI IM RESTORING A OLD PONTIAC FIERO 1986 I WANT TO ASK IF YOU HAVE ANY PRODUCTS FOR THIS MODEL ALL THE HELP WILL BE VERY APRECCIATED
Is there really one suspension to do it all (comfort and performance)? We have seen some cars like the new McLaren that really can balance comfort and performance. Do you see this coming to the aftermarket more? Do you envision Magnetic Ride Control in aftermarket systems soon?
I'm an entry level engineer with a BSME, are you guys hiring?
I have a set of KW V3 coilovers on my 2006 STi, and I'm wondering if you have a stateside support location for rebuilds. My understanding from speaking with the shop where I purchased them is that they must be shipped back to Germany for anything internal. This is frustrating, since it's my only car and having it down for that long would be problematic at best. Any advice?
I'd love to see a dyno run of four entry level KW adjustable coilovers through their range of adjustment. A lot of the cheaper brands seem to have a huge amount of crosstalk and inconsistent change in damping per click.
Hi, I would like to ask why the springs on coilovers made for cars using McPherson struts up front have their spring designed parallel to the damper? On oem McPherson struts, the spring is always angled parallel to the steering axle to reduce friction of the piston inside the damper (a big drawback of the McPherson suspension...). Why isn't this implemented on aftermarket coilovers?
Hi. I am building a BMW 1602. It weights about 970kg. I would like to know how do I have to calculate the springs strenght which will fit for my car best?
- Can you explain the relationship between spring pre-load and height adjustment with your coil overs?
- If springs are linear rate springs how can pre-load affect anything other than height adjustment and stroke length?
- Why do cheaper coil overs (Megan, D2, Tein, etc) have two adjustable spring perches while most high end coil over systems have only the lower spring perch adjustment. I assume it has to do with interchangeable parts between different platform systems to save money.
this may be an extremely stupid question but i'm still young and still have a lot to learn. anyway in the future i would like to built meself a street/rally car and i was wondering if there is a suspension system that allows you to adjust both your rideheight and stiffness from within the cabin. i know that airsuspension could might give you similar control but i don't really like air suspension nor the idea of having a airtank and compressor in the back of your car. so is there a system out there that does all this without weighing a shitload or taking in to much space? i'm sorry if there is a really obvious answer to this question but like i said, i'm stille young (16) and i still have a lot to learn
I would like to know why it is that a German made coilover suspension is less expensive in the United States than in Germany itself!
Is it possible to have a single tune for coilovers that are practical and reasonably comfortable for the street while at the same time good for the track, or is that too much to ask for?
I have an aftermarket set of sway bars and adjustable end links for my car (NA Miata). I think the routine would be roughly the same for all cars with a sway bar set up: Since I have adjustable end links, what's the best method of removing pre-load from the sway bars? What is the consequence of dialing in a bit of preload in the front and/or back, etc? I can get on a set of ramps, so I will be able to get down there and fiddle with the end links while the suspension is loaded.
The plan will be to get an alignment after this installation, is this something an alignment shop should do?
Joe Higashi They prolly dont, they dont even have bnr32 coils =( i want a v3 from them and they dont support my car >_<
I noticed many use your products in tarmac rally I was wondering if you were eyeing any dirt/gravel advancements or might offer anything in the future. thanks for the opportunity
Which ordinary road cars have the best out of the box suspension set-ups?
I'm building a 1931 model a with a 2.0 duratec turbo with miata 6 speed and explorer 8.8 rear axle. Using solid axle up front with 4 inch drop. I want a sway bar and was kwondering can I use a crown Vic sway bay and hacksaw off the ends and cut splines on the ends and make cnc links with rod end connectors. Will cutting a sway bar ruin it even with something slow like a hacksaw ?
what dose the front/rear stiffness of a sway bar set up effect?
Has KW considered manufacturing a FRIC system to go on customer cars?
xloki77x I think you answered your own question
xloki77x Now those weren't really questions... trying to open people's eyes are we?
can you explain the advantages and disadvantages in factory suspension types (double wishbone, double a-arm, macpherson, multi-link, etc) when applied to autocross/track driving?
a certain celebrity has stated that when a vehicle is lowered then the spring rate can be reduced for more comfort and better performance. Does that mean that when you lower a car with height adjustments on it's coilovers, the overall height of the spring has decreased therefore increasing the spring rate?
I like the stanced look and a low car but also want a car that i can drive. How low can I go before the handling of my car is comprimised? Is there a point where I can have a low car without ruined handling?
KW sells the Variant 1 / 2 / 3. What are the benefits of having only the possibility of rebound setting? I bought my 350Z with a Variant 2 already installed but i can't see any benefits in changing the setup because there is no compression to alter as well.
Main target is sporty street driving with some track days during the year.
ChristianSchmidt @shiftyXTI - Well, I've only asked Porsche race manager a question, not TAKATA or Aston Martin. Where is that answer?
greenroadster
Point for you!
A lot of aftermarket suspension kits lower the car's ride height, and by doing so, changes the suspension arms' geometry. Some aftermarket parts makers have roll centre adaptors and tie rod ends that claim to fix the geometry after lowering the car. How much must a road legal car be lowered to warrant the use of these roll centre adaptors and tie rod ends?
I love to drive my car on roads that are similiar to the Mighty Nürburgring.
What setup do you recomend? ( I will go to the ring next year )
BMW E46 320D touring
M3 controll arms and uppgrade brakes with semi slick tires.
Why are your coilovers so expensive, but they don't offer height adjustment without affecting spring pre-load?
If adjusting spring rate, how would you know the exact load in kg/mm?
And yes... what exactly would be the differences between cheap coilovers and expensive name brand ones?
What's the difference between rally car suspensions and track-use coilovers?
What exactly does the spring rates and damper settings each affect?
Hi guys ! I have a bunch of questions to ask, hope you will find them interesting, and my text not too long.
- From what I have read, weight, and how it's distributed on the 4 wheels, is the main factor to calculate spring rates. But we all know a track car doesn't have the same rates as a rally car or a street car, and that many things are to be considered when looking out for good balance on a car. How do you work on this, and what would be the difference between you and car manufacturers on that point ? How the suspension characteristics (such as the type of suspension, Mc Pherson, double whisbone etc. or the construction, monotube, gaz, fluid...) and the car specificities are going to have an influence on what is needed ?
- Also, I'd like to know the same things about compression, rebound (I'd also like to know more about the relationship between those 2), sway bars, preloads... and how you should prioritize them. I'll throw in my personnal situation right now : I drive an NA MX-5, 1.8l engine, with factory Bilsteins (just replaced when I bought the car) and Torsen. I'm planning things on a long term basis and want the car to perform in the best way possible, while remaining fun and relatively comfy and easy to drive fast on my favourite mountain pass in the French and Swiss Alps. My sway bar endlinks are full of rust and I'll have to change them, so I'm going to buy directly adjustable ones with a set of sway bars. I think my factory shocks are doing a pretty good job right now with my custom alignement (performing better than a friend's turbocharged MX-5 with cheap coilovers) and I won't change them for a while (until I'll be able to buy really high end suspensions). Is throwing in a big front sway bar to reduce front roll a good idea with my otherwise stock setup ? When I'll change the suspension for something probably lower and a bit stiffer, would it be better to add some preload with the endlinks, or change the bars accordingly and not preload them ? Also, while we're on the subject of MX-5s, you probably know the car has limited travel on the rear suspension, so it's pretty difficult to modify. People usually go for NB or custom top hats, but do you see other ways of preventing this ?
- Following the previous questions, the suspension area is surely one of the most, if not the most, complicated part of automobile engineering, and I'm sure you need to do a lot of testings to figure out things and perfect what you find out by theorical research. What are the proportions of time and efforts involved in situation testing compared to the time spent with a pen and a calculator ? How do you proceed for real-size testings (on machines and on road/track) ? Do you rely on pro drivers, racing teams, in-house drivers for feedback ? (And also, do you hire drivers ?)
- A question about personnal preferences : when you work on a car, do you always try to find the most balanced, easiest and predictable handling possible, or you work to keep the original characteristics of the car, with its pros and cons ? For example, if you were asked to set up an old 911, would you try to smooth out the rear end, even though it means it is going to lose its ability to put more power to the ground than a classic FR layout ?
- Now, I'll move on your collaboration with Polyphony Digital on Gran Turismo 6. As Yokohama Tires has worked on this game too, did you have some exchanges with them on this project, and do you work with tire manufacturers otherwise, outside of this game project ? And finally, what do you think about the physics of the game ? Do you think it could be used to test things and improve a setup on your real-life car if it is included in the game, and thus become a new tool for suspension development ?
- Finally, I'd like to know more about you guys : how did you get to work at KW, why, and how is it to be part of this team ?
So, thanks for reading my message, wish you all the best for the future !
Alexandre.
My car got coilovers that are adjustable but I still can't say if I did a proper set up.
In which order do you proceed to set up suspension ?
Exemple : (that's for sure wrong but give idea of an answer I'm looking for)
1 Raise your car
2 Adjust camber
3 Adjust pre-load
4 Adjust Length of coilover
5 blablablabla
Thank you very much for your time
Jeremy (from france)
Why the purple and yellow colours?
I already
have a KW var 2 in my Seat Leon 1M 2004 since almost 8 years now . Since
the car is no (anymore) the youngest and I use it
as a daily
drive also in winter the parts suffered a little bit ( a little bit chipping
paint on the springs and the coils loose some dumping quality.
My question
would be is there some kind of service from KW for refurbishing the suspension
all the dealers close to me
don’t give me any information about that they just want to sell you a new
suspension.
And how
does KW see the lifetime of a suspension kit ??
Michael ( Austria )
My TEIN's are dirty. Will tis affect their performance?
My Girlfriend has TA-Technix coilovers in her Alfa Romeo 156. The problem is, we can not lower it enough. If set "too" low, the adjusting nut on the coilover hits the knuckle, because the lower you set it, the more negative camber you get coming from the setup of the car's front suspension.
Could this problem be solved by buying a KW set? thank you!
I currently daily drive a BMW 316i Compact (E36) with a TA-Technix Coilover kit. Noticing the difference in price, where is the difference in quality? Say between a TA-Technix (Budget/Cheap Coilover) and a KW Coilover.
I've read in a few forums that Budget/Cheap Coilovers are ok for daily driving but not safe for driving hard on a track. Is this true?
@Heyachi More or less my question too. Also what factors do you consider, driving style, usage etc?
My Kit is an HDrive that has a a 30 step hard/soft adjustment knob. Is there more to the adjustment apart from comfort?
Hi i have a some what odd question. Im putting togeter a 67 ford ranchero i put a rb25de in it and i wanted to no if you guys had any parts that would work with my car any thing would fit or mix a mach parts that ok to
Thanks
i m currently drive proton satria a daily driving and track person i bought zerone SSR550 which is the cheapest around in malaysia i likely please to have KW for commonly used car in malaysia whick likely the "most affordable and the best suspension"
Hello,
Can you give us basic rules of suspension setting:
- Front and
rear axle frequencies according to usage (rally/track/drift/road) (spring
rating Vs axle weight)
- Spring
rate at the wheel (influence of installation
angle and location)
- hydro adjustment
Vs to spring rate (Ex: stiff short springs with standard shocks)
- A way to
define (or measure) suspension efficiency (or performance)and gain on a
specific car???
Thank you
Julien from France
Just bought a brand new set of KW Clubsport for my s13 driftcar.
Would you recommend to start with basic setup described in manual or start with something different.
Its also swapped the SR20det engine with a heavier 2jz-gte. Will this affect the recommended basic suspension setup?
Here in the U.S., many sanctioning bodies are creating classes for 200 treadwear tires to equalize the field and lower the cost of racing. If I were running on a 50 treadwear dot previously and move to a 200 treadwear tire, do you think I need to lower my spring rate to add mechanical grip. I'm currently running 2k hz suspension frequency. With less grip, the car could run at a slightly lower rideheight without bottoming and perhaps offset those gains, so there is more to consider maybe..
Some people describe running a stiff setup as the car being a bit easier to transition from corner to corner as body roll is lessened. My car is running a squared tires and has 52% weight on the front and too much power to be easily applied on a 200 treadwear tire. Because of this, I've removed my rear bar and my thinking is it keeps the tires more independent of each other to make the application of power a little easier with my typical clutch type diff. Any ideas there?
I have KW V2's on my vw bora daily driver and whilst the ride is pretty good compared with budget coils I have to say the build quality is not what I expected from the price.
Why use plastic adjuster rings? Mine have seized onto to the threaded body after 2 years use and when I tried to adjust them, they would not budge. After plenty of plusgas and lots of brut force, the only thing I succeeded in doing, was breaking bits of plastic off the adjuster rings. Now there are so many bits of plastic chipped off that there is no way they would adjust, even if they would move.
Also why use just one ring with a grub screw? The grub screw puts a dent into the thread on the main body (which may or may not be the reason why mine are seized in the first place) Also, because the grub screw is going into a plastic ring, it strips the thread on the plastic when you try to tighten them up. Cheaper alternatives use 2 metal rings. One for the adjuster and one for the lock nut. This solution is far more durable
Also, the fronts would not go low enough as they were, so I had to remove the helper springs and raise it up a bit to get the ride height / clearance I required.
The damper insert seems to have play in them now as well, which is not good for a product that costs the amount it does.
For the above reasons, I wouldn't recommend KW's and I am in the process of changing my suspension again, to a cheaper alternative that seem to be constructed better. Although I'm not sure the ride will compare. I'd rather they lasted.
- Can you determine spring rate (say for a racing application) solely by the car´s weight and weight balance?
- How do you choose which type of oil is going to be used in a shock? Thicker oil = stiffer movement?
- How do you measure spring rate and bound/rebound stiffness?
- How does rebound affect cornering? What are the pros and cons of pressurized vs non pressurized shocks?
Arthur Andrade - Mecanical Engineering Student.
Is it dangerous to go from a spring bucket type rear suspension to a true rear coilover system?
Hi,
I have a question about springs rates setup, i have always wondered what's the spring rate recommended stiffer front vs stiffer rear. Its depend on engine layout, front, rear, awd? or its depends on the type of racing, auto x, track, etc?
Thanks!
Hi!
My name is Bryan Young.
I'm building a 13Brew to swap into a NA6 Miata for drifting pro am.
With the change in front to rear weight, how do I calculate the proper spring rate to start off with?
get some Swift Springs! #SwiftSprings
Alright so I have been watching formula drift for years now and one thing I always hear the judges about is the suspension set up and how teams have them preset for tracks. I want to understand more in detail what goes into idaling in the setup on a particular track and how we as enthusiasts can learn more about how to do it ourselves?
How to properly Align at home, How to properly set up suspension and when a coilover or shock needs to be revalved.
How do you pick the best spring rates for a car starting from scratch? how do you choose spring rates for your different ranges V1, V2, V3, Clubsport, etc for a brand new car? Does KW make custom applications(pending money and necessary info)?
When the spring location on the lower control arm is moved outboard, overloads the tire? it will wear out faster?
Several years back, there was an article titled "World Of Outlaws: Doin’ It Sideways In Sin City" which showed KW Shocks being tested on Kyle Hurst's WoO Sprint Car. I thought it was really cool that a company as well established in the pavement racing market as KW was venturing out and trying their hand at dirt racing. However, since the article was posted, I haven't seen any further news on the shocks and their development. I was just wondering if this is something that is still in the works, or has it since been scrapped? Also, how did those shocks differ from a typical pavement shock? Thanks!
What do you recommend for the budget-minded? Or is KW suspension a case where tight wallets need not apply? The "if you're going to do it right..." cliche comes to mind, but do you offer kits that will let me upgrade my suspension without spending half the value of the car?
When trying to get the right amount of shock stroke is the best position to set the ride height with the shock in the middle of its travel when sitting static? Do you want equal amounts of max shock travel for compression and rebound?
Hi my name is Fanos and I'm intent to go on KW Coils, but firs I need more info about the kw variant 1 for the
Impreza GC8 Type R (MY98) and the front/rear spring ratio.
Thanks .
If I were to replace my shin-bones with KW coilovers, could I jump off really tall buildings and walk away unharmed?
JeremyBintham Think about what pre-loading the spring accomplishes...
I'm building a Toyota corolla KE70 panel van, mainly for the street. I'm aiming for a very responsive package, but still reasonable enough to be driven to events. now the front end, like all early Toyotas is mixture of bigger Toyota parts, but the rear end is just a simple leaf spring/shock setup. Shocks are a no brainer, but what can i do with the springs? What are the benefits of adding sway bars, or a pan hard rod? More importantly, what is worth doing?
Should probably add, to keep the car legal i must retain the rear end as leaf sprung, so no engineering a 4 link or any thing like that?
Any plans to create a coilover system for the F56 (14+) Mini Cooper S? My order just arrived (new daily) and am building it in a very track themed fashion as I am doing my M5.
Thanks.
What is the best way to fibd the right spring rate for the car with a 1 to 1 motion ratio at the rear. And also amtching it to the front for the more balance feel specially because the car im trying to tune is an AWD.? Thanks
Is the lift kit that KW does for coil overs does it effect the rebound or extension at all? How much does the KW lift kit extend the shock/coil to lift the suspension?
I own a 2013 135i E82, a weekend toy driven spiritedly on bad roads. Currently shopping for a good coilover system. What do you recommend getting? KW SC or ST XA?
Thank you very much.
I own a 2013 135i Coupe. It is a weekend toy mainly driven in a spirited way on bad B-roads. Already put on new non-runflat tires. Also, thinking about a thicker swaybar and more camber up front. The stock suspension is too harsh and too soft in corners.
What coilover system do you recommend? KW SC or ST XA?
Is getting used coilovers a bad idea? Can they be "refreshed" at KW/ST?
Do KW and ST coilovers rust?
Thank you for your answer.
Why are your TÜV-approved Variant 1,2 & 3 coilover-suspensions for a 1998 civic coupe so stiff at the front vs. the rear? This is more or less the only thing keeping me from buying them.
Greetings from Indonesia, i oftean heard about corner balancing (which in my case, no one here -the mechanics- doesnt know the real answer i think) described as giving maximum weight distribution on the suspension system , is it true? and does corner balancing improves suspension performance ?
thanks
I have a book that seems to be very old called, "How to Make Your Car Handle." In the book there is a section on "Z" bars, which appear to work in the same way as sway bars, but only when both wheels of an axle move in the same direction, like under dive and squat. Why don't we see these around any more? Old technology? Un-needed with modern springs and dampening or suspension designs?
What do you think the next large leap in suspension technology will be that we'll see widely used? Even if its years down the road, or currently very expensive. I've seen the magnetic damper showing up on more cars. I've also seen the Hyperco Bellows springs and similar products. Are these the future? Or specialized off shoots that won't affect the mass market?
RenoRotary I have that book too! its a bible!
How dangerous are cut springs for use on the road/track?
I often see drift cars with plenty of front camber, what are the benefits of this? and are there any drawbacks?
Also a sort of basic drift suspension guide would be good, As I learnt most of what I know about castor, toe, camber and spring rates etc from Gran Turismo and Forza descriptions, which focussed on the benefits and drawbacks of each setting for grip racing.
I understand that all the components work as a unit so finely tweaking one thing invariably requires tweaking something else, but knowing for example increasing front spring rates might require "........" to be stiffened/softened to achieve "......." result. would benefit hopefully quite a few nu skool kids like myself with little practical knowledge. kinda a gurus guide to what affects what.
Not sure how feasable it is but i would bookmark it for sure.
Thanks, G
How did KW contribute to GT6?
No questions, we love the KW Coilovers on our project cars.
1. In regards to mono-tube vs twin-tube dampers, I was reading an article from Koenig describing how they tune their car-specific dampers (typically non-adjustable or rebound adjustable only, non-coilover) and they say, "some cars respond to mono-tubes while others do not". After reading about the design and operation of both types of damper it seems like mono-tube would be superior on any sports car? Does KW always go with a mono-tube or is this a type of thing that must be tried on each specific car before choosing a given strategy?
2. Is it possible to get good performance on both sticky street tires and slicks from the same set of adjustable coilovers without changing spring rates (aka only altering the external settings, knobs and what not)?
3. What is the secondary smaller/flatter spring I often see on your coilovers? I assume the two spring set is comprised of linear springs that act as a progressive spring when operated together?
4. Is it more challenging making coilover kits for cars with McPherson strut-type front suspension as opposed to say a double-wishbone layout? Do ya'll prefer a particular suspension architecture?
5. Has KW experimented with these all-the-rage "spool valve" dampers (a la Z/28 Camaro)? Any plans to offer this tech in your dampers in the future? Is it as cool as it sounds?
6. McLaren has decided to axe the sway bars on its current lineup of super/hyper cars and instead achieves roll control through fluid management within the four dampers. Is this tech something that could potentially be offered from the aftermarket? or is the required integration too deep within the vehicle's systems to make it feasible?
7. [warning: not a spring/damper question, but it's driving me crazy] Adjustable rear trailing arms often cite the reason for their adjust-ability being so you can alter caster. Does rear suspension (in a typical rwd sports car) have caster? I know the front suspension does, but I'm confused seeing it referenced in terms of rear suspension. I know the rear suspension travel or stroke is not purely vertical, typically it leans backwards giving the suspension more time to deal with a given bump in a sense, but why or when would one adjust this? Also, if you were to adjust the stroke inclination angle wouldn't you need to adjust the length of all of the other suspension arms to prevent binding? Seems like a lot of effort.
I could go on and on but I'll cut myself off there. Keep up the good work KW! I have plans (and even a budget/goal set in Mint.com) to get a set from ya'll for my 5th gen Camaro SS as KW seems to have an excellent reputation on the forums.
id like to lower my 96 rav4 awd. you have an application for this vehicle?
Good Afternoon from South Africa, I am planning to build a KE70 with a 1UZ-FE VVTI motor.
the thing concerning me is that it has leaf springs in the back, so i am look for advise on hoe i could possibly change the leaf spring to springs and shocks?
Any assistance will be appreciated!
Good Afternoon from South Africa, I am planning to build a KE70 with a 1UZ-FE VVTI motor.
the thing concerning me is that it has leaf springs in the back, so i am look for advise on hoe i could possibly change the leaf spring to springs and shocks?
Any assistance will be appreciated!
Good Day
I'm from South Africa. The aftermarket tuning industry is very lacking in "technical know how" in SA.
Many enthusiasts want to upgrade their suspension for spirited street use, but information is limited.
For example, I have a 2010 E82 135i that I want to do a suspension upgrade on.
Could you perhaps consider helping enthusiasts decide how to properly match a damper / spring combo to their application? (Not for looks / lowering, but improved handling characteristics)
There are many different makes, heights and stiffness spring to consider, and similar the dampers. If you're only interested in improved handling on the street without compromising ride comfort too much, how do you go about selecting a damper / spring combo?
Mismatching the combo or using short / lowering springs with standard height shocks are to be avoided. BMW (and all manufacturers) have experts to set up the OEM suspension, but still it can be improved. In the case of the 135i they probably didn't improve the OEM suspension to not hurt sales of M-vehicles.
Please enlighten regarding proper damper / spring selection to improve street handling. If the E82 135i is used as an example, I would appreciate it on a personal level.
Kind Regards
Amiël Spreeth
South Africa