As a professional engine tuner, my passion is getting the best out of an engine. Perhaps that’s maximum power, but it could equally mean improved fuel economy and perfect driveability. Just because an engine rolled off the production line a certain way doesn’t mean that’s the end of the story. Modifying cars is always about improving, polishing, refining and personalising – and this same philosophy can be just as easily applied to the engine.
If you love modifying engines as much as I do, then you’re in luck. Right now we have access to some of the most advanced engines ever produced, but more importantly we also have access to the technology to tweak them, refine them and optimise them. And that technology is what we’re going to be discussing today.
In this story we’re going to investigate the options available for tuning your engine. I’m talking about optimising the fuel delivery and ignition timing to suit your specific modifications – not bolt on hardware. There are literally hundreds of options in the marketplace for tuning your engine, but essentially they’re all trying to do the same thing. Modern engines may have a lot of complexities, but when we get down to bare bones it always comes back to fuel and ignition.
There are plenty of options for tuning an engine, but broadly speaking they can be broken down into re-flashing the factory ECU (engine control unit or electronic control unit), or fitting a standalone engine management system, and I’ll explain what those terms mean now. Re-flashing is a technique where some smart people have decoded the mapping in the factory ECU and provided us with a software package that allows us to tune the ECU in a similar way to how the factory engineers do the job. Since you’re using the factory ECU for this method, there’s no need to cut or modify any wiring, which simplifies the job.
A standalone ECU on the other hand has been designed from scratch specifically to provide complete control over the engine tuning. Standalone ECUs are available from a wide range of manufacturers and are developed with the ability to control almost any engine you can think of. Some are designed as a plug-in replacement for the factory ECU and use all of the factory wiring and sensors, while others need to be wired to your engine and may require additional sensors.
The Pros & ConsSo here begins the confusion… In many popular cars you may have the option of using either type of tuning solution – re-flashing or a standalone ECU. So which is the best and which should you choose? The hard part is that there isn’t always a clear-cut answer as to which is the best option. Often you can get similar results using either option, which is even more confusing. And contrary to what many think, one brand of ECU won’t necessarily make any more power than another. If you’re supplying the same amount of fuel and ignition timing then the power will be the same – there’s no magic here. The key to choosing is properly understanding the pros and cons of each option and weighing these up against your requirements.
When it comes to the cleanest and most cost-effective solution, re-flashing the factory ECU is an easy winner. Re-mapping the engine can be done by plugging a special cable into the OBD-II port, and from there the maps can be read out of the ECU, modified as needed and then ‘flashed’ back in. Re-flashing is an option for many cars produced from about the year 2000 onwards, but not every car in production is supported.
In the past, a big drawback with re-flashing was the limitations of the stock ECU’s design, and if you wanted functions that weren’t included in the factory ECU you were out of luck. Development in the re-flashing industry has been feverish though, and there are a number of smart people and companies out there who have hacked the factory ECU code to add extra features or support not normally available. I’m talking about supporting the addition of a turbocharger to a naturally aspirated engine, flat shifting, multiple maps, flex-fuel support and more. There’s almost no limit to what can be achieved with the stock ECU in the right hands. As an example of that, several people in the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo tuning community have exceeded 1000whp on a stock ECU.
Re-flashing is also becoming more and more popular on late-model cars as the integration of all the vehicle electronics becomes more complex. In fact, with some late-model cars it may be your only viable option. Read my last article for a bit more insight as to why it’s getting harder to fit a standalone ECU these days.
But there are some downsides. In most cases, making changes to the tuning with re-flashing isn’t something that’s done live. This means you can’t make a change to the fuel or ignition timing and instantly see the results like you can with a standalone ECU. Instead, the changes are made to the map and then the engine is shut down and the modified map is flashed back into the ECU. This in itself is a time consuming process, which can take anywhere from a minute through to 15 minutes or more to perform. Understandably, if you’re making very large changes to the entire map, then the tuning process can take a very long time.
If you have questions, support from a manufacturer may also be variable depending on the product you’re using. If it’s a professional re-flash product such as COBB, EcuTek, HP Tuners or EFI Live, then customer support is available. Many people in the Mitsubishi and Subaru communities are using open source (freely available) software for re-flashing, which is great from a cost perspective, but often support is lacking, meaning hours of trawling internet forums searching for answers.
In comparison to re-flashing, a standalone ECU can be tuned in real-time, which means when you make a change and press enter, you can instantly see the results of that change. This makes it much faster to optimise the tune as you’ll immediately know if you’re heading in the right direction. Since a standalone ECU isn’t restricted by the stock ECU, wiring or sensors, it’s also easy to add additional sensors. Many standalone ECUs will also offer advanced functions such as on-board data logging and motorsport features like launch control, anti-lag and traction control. Lastly, if you have any problems, you can jump on the phone and get advice directly from the company that manufactured the ECU.
So which way should you go? Sadly there isn’t a single rule that I can write here that will cover every application – and I really wish there was. But I can share with you some of my own experiences with both options…
If you’re only considering some minor modifications like an exhaust and air intake, then the answer is simple – a re-flash is what you need. You’ll get to make the most of your new parts for a reasonably low outlay, and you can be sure that the car is still going to do everything it did when it was standard – start well from cold, control idle speed and offer perfect driveability.
If on the other hand you’re looking at building a serious race car then I’d be much more inclined to suggest a standalone ECU. Yes, often it is possible to get away with running a modified engine on a stock ECU, but more often than not there is no real advantage in doing so. The cost savings over a top-shelf standalone system ends up being almost insignificant in the bigger scheme of a maximum-effort build, and they are much faster to tune. A standalone ECU nicely integrates all the advanced motorsport features you could hope for, along with live real-time tuning and advanced data analysis, and this can be invaluable on the track.
If you’re somewhere in the middle of these two options then things can be a little murkier. In this situation the decision might be better made based on the person who is going to do the tuning. Basic re-flashing to suit simple modifications is relatively straightforward and most competent tuners can achieve a great result. If you’re getting serious though, and looking at perhaps adding 50 per cent or more to your engine power, then the job becomes more complex and a strong knowledge of the system you’re working with is essential. Unlike an aftermarket ECU, the inner workings of a factory ECU can be very complex, and depending on the re-flash software being used manufacturer support may be non-existent, hence making it more challenging to get a great result.
The other consideration is what other features you want from your engine. Motorsport features such as launch control, traction control and anti-lag may not be possible with some re-flash software, or may be pretty primitive in their ability.
The scenario you want to avoid is investing a lot of time and money into getting your tune right with re-flashing, only to eventually realise that you were operating beyond the limits of the ECU and end up with a second-rate result. I have seen this more often where a customer has started down the modification path with a few simple bolt-on additions backed up by a re-flash, only to go nuts later and end up swapping to a standalone ECU. If you can think really seriously about your long-term plans at the start of a project, this can help you make the right choice at the start, and ultimately you’ll save money and end up with a better result.
As with many things in the world of modified cars, our options aren’t always completely clear and obvious when it comes to tuning. If you’ve still got questions, ask them in the comments section below and I’ll do my best to help you out.
Andre Simon
Instagram: hpa101
Website: www.learntotune.com
Images by Ben Silcock
OFFICIAL SPEEDHUNTERS SUPPLIERS
*uploading pics in the back end of my new stand alone ECU*
Well that was good timing!
*uploading pics in the back end of my new stand alone ECU*
Well that was good timing!
*uploading pics in the back end of my new stand alone ECU*
Well that was good timing!
Would a standalone ECU be a good idea in the case of a AE92 Corolla with a carbbed 4A if it's gonna be converted to injection?
Depends on the scenario. In not familiar with the Toyota options but I run an 80 vw pickup on carbs. If I want to change back to injection i could use one of the factory systems available to that era or a stand alone. If I was upgrading the engine for max performance I'd want stand alone. If I simply wanted to get rid of the carb I'd just put the factory digi back on as it can handle the stock configuration and can be pulled or bought for a much lower cost. Just have to do homework on what is available from factory and if it will support where you want to end up.
Great article. I'm loving the reflashes I've gotten on my GTI, Can't wait to do another after a turbo upgrade.
Any chance of getting a story on that mkv GTI in the pics? Looks like a sweet oem plus race car build.. never seen a rear diffuser like that.
CescNavarroMartin Pretty good stock ECU available for the 4A but make sure you get the right injectors to match it. There were both high and low impedance ones available depending on model and year. Quite confusing.
CescNavarroMartin megasquirt
CescNavarroMartin megasquirt
I live in Cincinnati OH, and spend a lot of time between here and Chicago. I also have family in Detroit. I am looking for a good BMW builder and tuner. I heard there are a few places in Chicago. I would really appreciate if anyone could point me in the right direction. Thank you
I live in Cincinnati OH, and spend a lot of time between here and Chicago. I also have family in Detroit. I am looking for a good BMW builder and tuner. I heard there are a few places in Chicago. I would really appreciate if anyone could point me in the right direction. Thank you
Mworks garage here in cincy, it's brian cains sho
MIKRI MAUS Find RKtunes. He can handle almost anything BMW for tuning with good customer service.
MIKRI MAUS Find RKtunes. He can handle almost anything BMW for tuning with good customer service.
Stand alone ECUs for late model are lagging behind with direct injection support. I can count on one had how many aftermarket ECUs can handle DI, and cars with DI still have a lot of complex nannies that haven't been figured out yet for extreme tuning.
Good stuff! Thanks for the info!!!!
ANOTHER KNOWLEDGE BOOST!!!! YES! KEEP EM COMING PLEASE!
stand alone all the time...we are wiring and tuning every year minim 2-3 dozen and the customers are all happy...
quality starts at pectel, liferacing ans syvecs
ps. power does change from one ecu to the other, mastly in racing conditions where prediction and real accuracy makes a difference, on the dyno there is plenty of time for a consecvent afr and advance, but on a racetrack things change.
Awesome article, great read. Could someone with a good eye tell me what kind of wheels are on that golf?
MIKRI MAUS check out fluidmotorunion
The diffuser on that VW makes it looks like it didn't make it to the bathroom on time.
The diffuser on that VW makes it looks like it didn't make it to the bathroom on time.
I'd like to see a comparison between Pro EFI, AEM INFINITY and Haltech ELITE.
whats the best??
I'd like to see a comparison between Pro EFI, AEM INFINITY and Haltech ELITE.
whats the best??
TarikLaaraj trying to pick a 'best' is difficult when you're comparing a few ECUs that are in the same sort of price point and share similar spec lists. Basically the answer is that all three ECUs are excellent and will do a great job of running most engines. I recommend starting by listing what features you need for your project, as well as how many inputs and outputs you will be using. This will then make sure the ECU you choose will do what you need it to do.
Beyond the basics though, particularly if you're using a tuning shop to do the tuning, I'd always recommend going with an ECU they are familiar with. This way they're likely to get the best results in the fastest time and they will know all the little tricks, tips and time savers for their particular ECU of choice.
TarikLaaraj trying to pick a 'best' is difficult when you're comparing a few ECUs that are in the same sort of price point and share similar spec lists. Basically the answer is that all three ECUs are excellent and will do a great job of running most engines. I recommend starting by listing what features you need for your project, as well as how many inputs and outputs you will be using. This will then make sure the ECU you choose will do what you need it to do.
Beyond the basics though, particularly if you're using a tuning shop to do the tuning, I'd always recommend going with an ECU they are familiar with. This way they're likely to get the best results in the fastest time and they will know all the little tricks, tips and time savers for their particular ECU of choice.
Mattlubo I'll check with the owner and reply after the weekend for you
xracer6 No problem! Glad you enjoyed it
eVox You're right, DI support is still in its relative infancy in standalone ECUs. The tide is turning though with the likes of Life Racing and Motec among others now offering standalone DI ECUs. Often the complexity isn't actually in running the engine though as a lot of CAN bus decoding is needed to keep the rest of the vehicle systems operating as intended. This right now makes reflashing the most sensible option for a DI engine unless you're planning to strip it bare and build a dedicated race car.
KootenayDub the Golf pictured is being built up as an endurance race car to compete in 1 hour and 3 hour endurance races. It's a tidy car but might fall a little short of SH feature worthiness I'm afraid
CescNavarroMartin there is little to no reflash support for Toyota ECUs which does limit your options. With the age of the AE92 era Toyota ECUs though, these wouldn't have been reflashable via OBD2 anyway - They are too old. Your best bet in this instance would be to retro fit a stock 4AGE AE92 ECU and harness if the engine is stock or very close to it. If you're planning on some modifications then a standalone is your best option.
Speedhunters_Bryn very nice! I had to have a sneak peak
hexerengineering standalone ECUs are the perfect option for many applications and it sound like they are ideal for whatever cars you're tuning so I applaud your efforts. As per the article though it's still not possible to apply a blanket rule about which way to go - life's never that simple and some vehicles just don't lend themselves to integration of a standalone ECU, at least not without a significant amount of reverse engineering for CAN bus integration.
By definition if two ECUs are providing the same injector pulsewidth and ignition advance (and cam angle where applicable), the power will be identical. Transient situations are a different deal, however properly tuned I've not been able to see an actual power advantage between two ECUs or comparable quality on a dyno or a racetrack. Often the accuracy and precision of the ECU will be limited by the trigger system fitted to the engine rather than the processing speed of the ECU.
Great article!
How about piggyback (like Unichip or AEM FIC)? It's also solution!
Great article!
How about piggyback (like Unichip or AEM FIC)? It's also solution!
Oh how I love wiring in a stand alone system -- -- Here is the harness for an Electromotive TechGT
[URL=http://s586.photobucket.com/user/Fiatdude/media/2011-02-01_wiringharness.jpg.htmlIMGhttp://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss306/Fiatdude/2011-02-01_wiringharness.jpg/IMG/URL]
but its the price you pay to make 400HP in a bug
@fiatdude the same is waiting for me soon with twinturbo
https://goo.gl/photos/uEhDmeurjqQrF1co8
@fiatdude the same is waiting for me soon with twinturbo
https://goo.gl/photos/uEhDmeurjqQrF1co8
YuryClie Go air - water inner cooled -- extra oil cooler for the radiator under the car, a small pump and tank -- more efficient and smaller -- you'll thank me for the advice
YuryClie Go air - water inner cooled -- extra oil cooler for the radiator under the car, a small pump and tank -- more efficient and smaller -- you'll thank me for the advice
YuryClie part 2 -- you can see the small tank and cooler in the above photo
@fiatdude Thank you for the advice. Already installed 2 stage oil dry sump (u can see it under triggerwheel), 12 liter oil tank and 2 Setrab oil coolers wait to installation.
@fiatdude Thank you for the advice. Already installed 2 stage oil dry sump (u can see it under triggerwheel), 12 liter oil tank and 2 Setrab oil coolers wait to installation.
Great article, thanks! Is it possible to brick the ecu during a reflash? Can i reflash for a track day and then back to stock? I am guessing that it isnt something to be taken lightly, right?
rook56 in some situations it is possible to brick the ECU. It's important to make sure that the battery voltage remains high during the flashing process, particularly for ECUs that take several minutes to flash. Some of the reflash software packages have specific tools for recovering an ECU that has failed during a reflash. In my personal experience I've never had an ECU that has become bricked and unrecoverable while flashing though.
@fiatdude keep up the good work!
YuryClie I'm very specific about what applications I'll consider a piggyback ECU for. I'm not personally a fan of manipulating the ECU signals to get my desired result and in my own experience the results you can get from a piggyback can be quite variable. At best I would only use a piggyback in a lightly modified application. Many people get themselves in trouble by trying to use a piggyback ECU in a situation it was never designed for - ie turbocharging a N/A engine and adding larger injectors.
With some of the very late model factory ECUs now running in closed loop mode continuously, these will also tend to undo any changes you make to the air fuel ratio if you use a piggyback ECU.
On a 08' 350Z / tuned with UpRev, with basic modifications like HFC, intake and exhaust would you recommend an aftermarket wideband AFR sensor for tuning or are the stock ones sufficient? Thanks
Cool Cars But You Need Hot Girls With Cars
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Andre Simon Mattlubo they do look sexy AF
YuryClie @fiatdude Sweet looking builds!
Andre, what can you say about FuelTech ? An opinion for those with carburettors please.
I had a standalone Haltech e6x with my ke20 4age turbo, and now have XR6 turbo with an Autotech custom reflash, both with great results.
What do you think would be best for my 2013 Isuzu Dmax diesel? Not after huge power, just a little bit more...really.
Haltech interceptor? ECUwest flash? What are the people in NZ doing?
Dollar Stone FuelTech isn't a brand that I've used unfortunately so it's impossible to give first hand experience. Their results with the likes of Larry Larson's 5 second street car suggest that they get the job done but there is a lot more to consider to achieve good driveability in a true street application.
Dollar Stone FuelTech isn't a brand that I've used unfortunately so it's impossible to give first hand experience. Their results with the likes of Larry Larson's 5 second street car suggest that they get the job done but there is a lot more to consider to achieve good driveability in a true street application.
Dollar Stone FuelTech isn't a brand that I've used unfortunately so it's impossible to give first hand experience. Their results with the likes of Larry Larson's 5 second street car suggest that they get the job done but there is a lot more to consider to achieve good driveability in a true street application.
Zebra P Knee the Isuzu Dmax isn't an application I'm personally familiar with sorry. With the limited support from aftermarket ECUs for common rail diesel applications, you're almost certainly going to be faced with either a reflash of the stock ECU or possibly a piggyback module. I'm not personally aware of products that offer reflash support for the Isuzu brand right now and that could end up making the decision for you. I've had mixed results with piggy back units on CRDI engines so make sure you do your research before making a decision.
Andre Simon Zebra P Knee hey, thanks for replying. I think i'll wait and see what results the guinea pigs get before rushing in.
So what standalone ECU would you recomend for my two Soarer's - one street legal with 1JZ-GTE and the other with a M52B25 from a 523i E39 BMW wich I use for drifting?
I'm planning on building a 1986 Mercedes 560SEC. I'm going to be swapping the old M117 out and using its crank to build an iron-sleeved 6.0L M119 for the car. Most guys in the Mercedes tuner community have good things to say about the Haltech PS200 ECU for controlling both fuel and spark, but that it doesn't have knock control which some guys are telling me is an issue and are recommending I go with a Link G4 or a ViPec i88 which can. My question is; what really is the reasoning for the knock control? Doesn't that just add complexity to the system, perhaps good tuning will make it unnecessary? The car is going to see mostly street use with the occasional drag strip here and there, is going with a more expensive ECU just knock control worth it?
Trentworth I can tel you that he already anwser this question in a video released on Youtube.
https://youtu.be/rhkFUd11094
Great article, thanks Andre.
Anyone know what wheels are on the Golf in the first image?
the car was very good
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Great article. As a pro tuner myself, the one issue with flash tuning is the lost benefit of using a dyno to live tune. I do specialize in tuning with open source on the Evo and WRX/STI. I road/track tune. I dyno tune too, but I don't see an advantage with the flash method.
An aftermarket ECU on the dyno doing live tuning is a great benefit. However, most of my clients need to pass emissions. Something to consider for most, is your car needing emissions every couple of years?
Andre & Ben,
First of all I would like to thank you for the article: Knowledge Boost: Re-flashing Vs. Standalone ECUsWORDS http://www.speedhunters.com/author/andre-simon/ IMAGES Ben Silcock14TH AUGUST 2015
I have to admit that I am a beginner, having a project on my hands that I hope that I can fulfill, I was handed down a 1977 Silverado, the very first new vehicle that my father bought right off the lot, and now the vehicle is sitting unattended and for 20 years I have waited for the courage to take on the project. This said, I have received a 4.8L with a 4L60E tranny off a 2007 1500 Silvarado, 70,000 miles, a rolled salvage, with all the late options, EFI, electric fan, O2 sensors galore, etc., and now I do not know which way to go, I feel over whelmed. I really do not want a drag racer, would not make since for a daily driver, but would like to modify here and there as time goes on. I see that many are swapping these newer engines in even older car and truck models, but I have not encountered a step by step illustration of how it was done, I may be slow to realize or just blind. If you have any suggestions, if to go re-flash or standalone or just where to begin, I am all ears. I have a friend that is a body repair person that has pulled and installed engines in wreck vehicles, he has also joined in this venture, but his knowledge is also limited although he assures me that we have all we need, (i.e. harnesses, ECU, sensors, etc.) but to me, if I do not know how they support each other or in combination, it is impossible. Please feel free to criticize or give me any feedback. Thank you in advance, stay safe and knowledgeable.
Full of Dreams
I'm looking at doing a ground up rebuild on a 98 GT 4.6 SOHC. My goals are to produce a daily driver with 800 to 1k HP in the motor, I'm leaning to towards a stand alone ECU but my concerns are passing OBDII for inspections and how robust the aftermarket ECU's are in relation monitoring all areas of the electronics... I.E. ABS, Airbags.. etc.. I understand I have an older vehicle but any ideas/opinions on the direction to take or what questions I should be asking?? I have yet to find any stand alone that clearly states OBDII compliant for inspections. My other question is would it be possible to use a newer stock harness and sensors since the motor and drivetrain will be completely rebuilt??
Hey there,what would you recommend for a 2010 sx4 with cvt if i intend to freshen up the head and say put an exhaust system on it? Reflash i guess but what brand?
Thanks
I’m looking at the Link ECU for my 02 WRX. What is your experience with this unit if any?
I have a v10 audi s6. It has a detuned Lamborghini motor and an automatic transmission. I am having problems with the motor management, that even the much vaunted specialists at the Audi Germany. It seems to be a normal problem with the motor that they do know about. The left bank is not talking to the right bank. They thought it to be a good idea to have two ecu's one for each bank. I have spent about a year trying to let audi handle it with no luck. Can a reflash from a professional be a viable option for me in your opinion??