If you’ve seen recent automotive news media from Japan, chances are it mentioned police crackdowns or the decline of the country’s car scene.

While it might be true of Tokyo to some extent, Osaka tells a different story. During the one recent night I spent with some locals, I witnessed the vibrant heart of Kansai car culture.

Let’s start at CBC (Car Boys Club), a local garage run by Ikegami-san. CBC is a pure hobby venture, where Ikegami-san and his friends devote evenings and weekends to all things Honda.

Parked outside the workshop was Ikegami-san’s B16A-powered and JACCS-liveried EF9 Civic SiR, which was one of my favourite Hondas at this year’s Attack Tsukuba event. Ikegami-san clocked an impressive 1’02.740 lap, a super-impressive time for a stock-bodied, naturally aspirated car.

Inside, the shop mirrors many other Japanese garages we’ve explored: a treasure trove of parts, trinkets, and machinery – some valuable, some not – but all creating the unmistakable vibe of a JDM automotive workspace.

This trio of Civics are Ikegami-san and his friends’ projects. While you might expect them to be built for the infamous Kanjo Loop, Ikegami-san focuses most of his energy on the racetrack. He’s a regular at Central Circuit just an hour from Osaka – a favourite among Honda enthusiasts and even host to a Honda ‘one-make’ race.

Leaving CBC, we cruised the Osaka low roads, Ikegami-san’s EF9 on the back of his truck, Honoka in her EK9 Civic Type R, and another friend in a perfectly simple EG Civic.

Filling up at a local fuel station, the distant sounds of Hondas, Nissans, and bosozoku filled the air. This was a stark contrast to Tokyo’s late-night car culture, where crackdowns have pushed spirited driving to the city outskirts. Even the iconic Shibuya weekend gatherings have become fewer and farther between.

Kanto (Tokyo) and Kansai (Osaka) car styles differ significantly. In Kansai, there’s a charming disregard for things like exhaust silencers and front licence plates. It’s what makes the car culture here so vibrant. Osaka’s modified car owners enjoy making noise and testing driving laws (allegedly) without much fear of retribution.

You could liken the differences to nightlife: Tokyo is a nice dinner out with friends, while Osaka is street drinking outside a combini, six beers deep and sharing laughs. Both have their place, but sometimes you crave that raw thrill.

After a brief drive, we arrived at Higashi Osaka Parking Area, Osaka’s version of Daikoku PA. Pulling in, we were greeted by police on-site, leaving little time for photos. However, these frames from some videos I shot should give you a good idea of how alive it was.

At a guess, over 250 cars were in attendance – from Kanjo Loop Civics to drift-spec AE86s and VIP land barges – it was the best parking area show I’ve ever seen in Japan.

After watching the PA empty out in a spectacularly loud fashion, we headed to Downtown Osaka. Amerikamura is a thriving hotspot for all types of street culture. By day, it’s alive with skateboarding and art, but by night, it transforms into a haven for car and bike enthusiasts.

This night was no exception. Many cars that had migrated from Higashi Osaka PA gathered here, including the founder of the legendary Kanjo Loop team ‘No Good Racing’ in his Porsche 992 GT3.

On most weekend evenings, you can find a mix of car and bike culture in Amerikamura. Ironically, it sits right by a Koban (local police station), yet the street meets rarely get broken up.

Throughout the night, there was a steady stream of unique and interesting cars and bikes, including this Type R pairing of an NSX and a Civic.

In a landscape of increasing police intervention, Osaka offers a car culture experience that Tokyo cannot match. While Japan’s capital boasts some of the world’s best tuning shops and automotive events, its once-thriving street culture is fading under tightening rules and regulations. My night in Osaka reignited a passion for Japan’s automotive scene that Tokyo struggles to maintain; Kansai has truly captured my heart.

Alec Pender
Instagram: noplansco