I’ll lay out a scenario for you… You’re out on the track enjoying everything your car has to offer. You’re pushing it hard to keep up with that car just ahead. You’re using more boost and more RPM than normal and you’re braking later and harder than ever before. All your focus is on keeping up with that other car. Then something doesn’t feel right. The engine has lost power. You instinctively scan the gauges and notice the oil pressure is too low. You back off the pace and moments later notice a subtle metallic knocking of a run engine bearing and your heart sinks…
This is all too often the downside of owning and modifying a performance car. For the most part we are taking a production engine and putting it into a situation it wasn’t designed for. Maybe the cooling system can’t keep up? Perhaps with your new sticky tires and track-tuned suspension, the oil system can’t cope under hard cornering? Or perhaps a bunch of other potential scenarios crop up that relegate your modified engine to an expensive pile of scrap metal.
Making matters worse is the ever increasing power levels we are seeing out of our modern engines. In a car putting out let’s say 200kW (268hp) for example, it isn’t much work to scan the gauges regularly to make sure everything is okay. With 400kW-plus (536hp-plus) though, the driver has their hands full just keeping the car on the road without worrying about what the gauges are saying. That’s why in the heat of battle it’s very easy to overlook something that could be fatal.
Luckily we have options though, and most of the current crop of engine management systems offer some smart engine protection strategies to watch over everything so you don’t need to. For some reason that I’ll never understand, many tuners don’t take the time to configure these engine-saving functions though. I’m not sure if it’s ignorance or laziness, but either way it won’t save your engine! In this story we’re going to look at the top five engine protection strategies you should be using:
5 Essential Engine Protection Strategies
Over Boost
Alright, I’ll admit that this isn’t really an engine protection strategy – it’s just common sense. It doesn’t take much to go wrong with your wastegate or boost plumbing to result in excessive or uncontrolled boost pressure. While it might be fun for a few seconds, in the long run no good can come from running in an un-tuned part of your map and the extra stress can damage an engine or turbo in a matter of seconds.
Every ECU includes an adjustable over-boost limit that can be used to cut fuel or ignition (or both) if the boost pressure rises too far. Make sure it’s configured slightly higher than the normal boost you expect to run and it will be there to save you if a boost hose pops off.
Engine Temperature
Again this isn’t a parameter that most people would give too much thought to, but it’s the cause of a lot of engine failures and it’s easy to add some safety parameters in your ECU. The quickest and easiest way of protecting an overheating engine is to simply reduce the RPM limit when the temperature gets above the range you’re comfortable with. This will have two side effects. Firstly it will bring the driver’s attention to the fact that something isn’t right. Secondly, if the driver chooses to ignore the warning it will also prevent the engine being driven as hard and this should help reduce the engine temperature.
The AEM Infinity ECU pictured has a specific protection system for engine temperature where the tuner can define an RPM limit that varies with temperature. If the engine is too hot (or too cold), the ECU will cut fuel or spark to prevent engine damage.
While the RPM limit is an easy and obvious choice, we can also modify the tuning parameters to suit the elevated temperature. For example, we may choose to reduce the boost pressure, add more fuel to help cool the engine, or retard the ignition timing to avoid the chance of detonation.
Oil Pressure
One of the most common reasons for track day engine failure is due to run bearings that result from oil starvation. Factory sumps aren’t designed for the high cornering forces of the track and it only takes a momentary loss of oil pressure to do damage. The photo above shows the oil pressure trace at a race track and you can see the sharp dip where the oil pressure drops off.
The proper solution is to redesign the oil system, however we can at least use the ECU to prevent damage. Oil pressure is a little more complex to protect against as the oil pressure will depend on engine RPM, and what could be considered safe at idle will almost certainly cause damage at 8000rpm and full throttle. This requires a safety ‘threshold’ that defines the lowest allowable oil pressure as RPM increases.
Fuel Pressure
Along with oil pressure, fuel pressure is another sensor on my list of ‘must haves’. The amount of fuel the injector can supply is directly related to the fuel pressure. All it takes is a tired fuel pump or some debris in the pump inlet to drop the fuel pressure and the result could be a dangerously lean air/fuel ratio. If the pump simply stops then we are actually better off as the injectors will receive no fuel and the engine will stop. The more dangerous situation is when the fuel pressure drops perhaps 10-15 per cent, allowing the engine to still run but with reduced fuel supply.
The fuel pressure you expect to see will depend on whether your fuel system is returnless (in which case it should remain fixed), or it uses a pressure regulator referenced to manifold pressure. Either way, we can use a similar technique to what we looked at for oil pressure protection and define a safe threshold of what we expect the fuel pressure to be. Any time the fuel pressure drops below this threshold, the fuel or ignition can be cut.
Lean Protection
Monitoring the fuel pressure is really just a way of protecting the engine against a lean air/fuel ratio, but if your ECU is fitted with a wideband air/fuel ratio sensor you can do this a little more directly. Provided the ECU knows what the air/fuel ratio is, we can set a ceiling for the air/fuel ratio relative to engine boost pressure or load. This ceiling is the maximum or ‘leanest’ air/fuel ratio we will allow and if the air/fuel ratio drifts leaner than this, the ECU can halt the fun.
If you’re using a system like this it’s important to add a time delay into the protection strategy too. It’s common for the air/fuel ratio to read lean momentarily after a gear change or during fast throttle applications, and if there is no delay this could cause the power to be cut unnecessarily.
Implementing Engine Protection
Now that you know what can be achieved I bet you’re wondering why you aren’t already using these sort of features? When it comes time for a tune, make sure you spend some time talking to your tuner about what you want and what they can offer in the way of engine protection. Understand though that setting up each of these strategies can take time so expect to sling your tuner some extra dollars. But in the long run a little extra spent here could save you thousands later on.
These engine protection strategies may also require additional sensors so that the ECU knows what’s going on. While a coolant temperature sensor and boost pressure sensor are essentials for the ECU to do its job in the first place, sensors to monitor fuel and oil pressure aren’t always included in a basic installation. A quality pressure sensor like the Honeywell 150psi sensor pictured is cheap insurance for an expensive engine though.
So what if you have a stock ECU? Or no ECU at all and you’re still in the stone age with a carburettor? No problem, you still have options! Products from the likes of AEM and Innovate (pictured) are available to protect your engine in a standalone form. These products can monitor your engine’s vitals and then control an output based off your own programmed parameters.
The engine protection strategies I’ve talked about aren’t magic, and despite the title of this story, you still need a basic engine that is able to withstand the power you’re asking from it. You can think of these techniques as a safety net if something avoidable goes wrong and in my experience they can prevent around 90 per cent of the engine failures I’ve seen.
The five strategies I’ve listed are the ones I consider essential but there are many other options to help safeguard your investment. Tell us in the comments section below what you’re using to keep your engine together, or your spectacular engine failure story. You know, the one where these strategies could have saved your wallet! As always, any questions are also most welcome.
Andre Simon
Instagram: hpa101
Images by Ben Silcock
OFFICIAL SPEEDHUNTERS SUPPLIERS
I'll kick off, I seem to comment on all your posts. My engine went bang as basically I didn't have a surge tank, so it kept getting fuel surge. On top of this I used standard sump so oiling probably wasn't the greatest on the track and after a particularly poor shift around Castrol at Pukekohe going into 2nd instead of third, I got to the hairpin and the rod wanted out, so it left my engine via the top of the block, well side as it's an EJ20.
My rebuild is over twice standard power and basically it has everything done to it. All the sensors I need. I would highly recommend a digital dash (I use race technologies dash 2 pro) as well as this has saved my engine once already. As a oil line fitting failed while driving slowly on pubic road and I lost oil pressure, dash showed it reducing and then flashed a warning and I stopped immediately. I am however going to ask my tuner about the systems that are in place to protect the engine. I do know the car reduces power if the IAT goes too high and I hope the fuel thing is covered as it's flexi fuel car, mainly running E85. Another great article to make you think about your setup.
Captain obvious is......well.....obvious
on a gauges front, I have one of these... absolutely great piece of kit http://racediagnostics.com/cms/index.php?page=liquidcube I can ask it to show me a number of different things at once so I can see whats going on, and it plugs straight in the OBD2 port
These Knowledge Boost articles are extra-helpful for a fan like me who might someday decide to rally/rallycross a Mitsu Mirage while keeping it road-legal and drivable for my date.
Do more of these, and next time, chassis tuning, cages and bodywork, please?
RussClarke Do you mean 2nd instead of 4th? If not, that's kind of a strange miss-shift on nomal manual pattern.
Whoa, he said "run bearing" not "spun bearing", where did this guy Andre Simon come from? Nice job focussing on the aftermarket ECU crowd, but how many people run non-oem ECU's (percentage wise)?
Solid info tho and that's what's up!
Exage RussClarke yes I meant second gear instead of forth, the corner requires 3rd but I thought 2nd would get me higher up the rev range and be a better shift for power.
Abezzegh87 Tuning a modern stock computer is very similar to tuning a aftermarket unit. It is all about the tune. You can melt pistons with a aftermarket ecu just as fast as you can on a stock ecu.
Words of advise, only take you car to a trusted tuner who has experience with your particular vehicle. Doing this ensures that the tuner already has base tunes for your vehicle that they will dial in for your specific application. Also, you get what you pay for. Your tuner may have sold you on $30/hr for tuning, but what happens when they blow your engine? More than likely they will not help you out.
Pay the money, have it done right the first time, and make sure you have it retuned whenever you add or change parts that effect engine performance and efficiency.
For some reason ECU keeps showing this error. Can someone help?
Its the second stage of NOS trying to blow the welds on the intake.
milkplus probably is trying to unscrew the nuts at the passenger side floor pan.
milkplus It's actually the second stage of NOS blowing the welds of the passenger floor.
Abezzegh87 NA I would simply remap, factory ECUs are really really good with tons of functions. A supercharged/turbo is more complicated, for example my ecu requires a custom operating system to run a speed density tune on anything over 1.5 bar. It also only drives high impedance injectors which are insanely expensive for big ones or a peak and hold injector driver box (a bandaid fix). Another issue is with high RPM engines, sometimes the factory ECU will have an RPM bottleneck for ignition or injectors because they were never designed to run an engine at that RPM. In my opinion, when you need to step up to an aftermarket ecu, you'll know it.
On turbo engines you will want a egt yes or yes... Is a must to drive At wot for long periods of time and be aware thats is ok to keep pushing the engine.
Now me and the mad scientist gotta rip apart the block and replace the piston rings he fried
Some very good information here, thanks Andre
LukeEVOVIII "I almost had you"
Gianluca FairladyZ LukeEVOVIII Be careful you might loose your floor board
Good read.
UWerqxTeam_MJ Aren't most rally cars required to be road legal? The only reason why I'm asking is because I see a lot of rally cars with license plates and I've never really looked into the rulebook.
LukeEVOVIII glad you enjoyed it
FelipeVergara EGT is a useful addition to a turbocharged car - It's not essential but yes, it can offer valuable information. One problem with an EGT sensor is that it's quite a time consuming sensor to install properly. For the sensor to be useful, it needs to be installed in the collector before the turbo. This requires the turbo and manifold to be removed from the engine.
Abezzegh87 I agree with the comments made by AirLift_Lucas - It's all about the tune.
Properly tuned, a reflashed stock ECU can provide excellent results for a lot less money than a stand alone ECU. The factory ECU is also much more sophisticated than most people give them credit for. What I mean is that its control strategies are designed and developed specifically for the engine it is controlling. Often this means it will provide cold start, idle control and driveability that can be difficult to replicate on a standalone ECU.
Poorly tuned, any ECU is capable of damaging your engine. Research the tuners in your area and choose one with a proven track record.
Abezzegh87 An air filter by itself will not require a retune. If you replace the tube that the MAF sensor is in, it is 100% required. On a turbo vehicle, replacing the exhaust could justify a new tune as this can increase boost and efficiancy.
Andre Simon Abezzegh87 AirLift_Lucas Factory ECUs will have many more complicated and intricate features that aftermarket ECUs won't have. Think of it like this, the average OE or Teir 1 supplier will spend millions of dollars and man hours designing, developing and tweaking the powertrain computer. The standards that OEs are required to uphold are far above and beyond anything the aftermarket is usually willing to design to (Look up the ISO 26262 spec on the internet). This doesn't mean that all oem ECUs are the end-all-be-all, but unless you are going all out race car, aftermarket ECUs are usually not required.
@dr dre a run bearing and a spun bearing are not the same thing. Not all run bearings result in the bearing shell 'spinning' in the journal. It's a subtle difference but a difference none the less.
The focus of the article is on aftermarket ECUs however I've also mentioned a couple of products applicable to OE ECUs. Also if you're reflashing a stock ECU with the likes of EcuTek for example, most of these strategies can be employed using the Race ROM custom maps feature. It comes down to thinking a little outside the box.
In my country aftermarket ECUs probably still outnumber OE reflashing but this will vary from country to country.
UWerqxTeam_MJ thanks for your comments! Chassis tuning is a definite possibility in the future. I'm no panel beater though so I'll leave the bodywork to those who know what they're doing
JakWhite that's a smart looking product. I find the benefit of any type of gauge (even the MoTeC dash units we show in the article) is having a programmable alarm if any of the parameters go outside your safe limits. It's incredibly difficult in a powerful car to drive the car while keeping an eye on the gauges. A programmable alarm will let you know something is wrong and then you can check to find out what it is.
mazdaspeeder86 if you're using these sort of strategies in your own car then I'm happy for you, but you're in the minority.
Unfortunately if the techniques were so obvious I wouldn't see so many needlessly damaged engines, and I wouldn't have needed to write this story.
RussClarke thanks for your comments. It's never a pleasant experience losing an engine but some good can come from it if you can learn from it and put steps in place to prevent the same thing happening again. The Race Technology dash is a great piece of kit and very well priced.
AirLift_Lucas normally I'd agree that changing an air filter alone wouldn't require a retune, however there are circumstances when they can. For the sake of safety I usually recommend at least checking the tune any time you are making a change that can effect the engine's volumetric efficiency. This includes any intake or exhaust modifications.
Sorry if I came off rude. It's just that if ppl are messing with their cars especially the engine. And do not understand the simple concept of internal combustion chamber engine they deserve to blow up their engines.
The info you have provided are widely available on the Web for ages. If ppl don't understand the importance of fuel trims, how to monitor it, and compensation of fuel when more air is added. Then again..... they need to leave it stock and just enjoy what the manufacturer have given to them.
Use Fully Synthetic engine oil that is rated at a slightly heavier weight than your usual engine oil ?
Yes all you say is true. But still it need to be done in a high power engine... I am not saying is easy, Just that is very helpfull and can save engines...
A change I made after breaking a couple of built grout filled 4AGE blocks was swapping from your typical boost tee or bleed valve to a haltech boost control solenoid. Even though we are still making the same power we have slowed down how quickly the turbo comes on in the midrange and how quickly the boost is built. This also makes the car a lot more drive able and has reduced compressor surge we were sometimes getting on light throttle.
An eboost also a great choice for setting this up.
Image attached is with a boost t only on a 1.6 20v 4age with a gt3076r on martini racing e85
Andre Simon RussClarke
Andre Simon RussClarke Hi Andre,thanks for sharing the infos with us.and replying to all the guys here so patient!
iam on my way to japan right now with an 3s-gte ecu in my pack and thinking about giving MINES ecu a visit.
Thing
is - iam into turbos quiet a while and went through long discussions
about ECU tuning (piggyback) or standalones for my car.Iam still not
sure what to buy/get.Thought it might not harm to take the ECU with me
anyway.
I thought about a megasquirt or haltech first,then
the MR2 US Community developed their own systems and ECUs - problem
with all those ECUs would be to find a trustfull tuner in germany who
set things up for me.
Thing is - my 3s-gte is
basiacally stock.Ct15b turbo (stock) injectors,ect stock.Only thing is -
i have a big water intercooler system + big air filter (K&N) and a
much stronger pump (Denso 1020 from the 2jz-gte) i drive on stock
boost.Wideband is installed so are gauges for oil pressure,EGT and
boost.
The bottom end is fuly built with CP Pistons and ACL Rods and ARP internals all over.Cams are stock.
A pretty expensive built after all show after all and i fear to damage something with a bad standalone tune.
What do you think of going the route with a MINES tune?
peace,
Dan
Good information here. I run a life racing ecu from Britain on my audi Quattro in the USA and the options for engine safety parameters are endless! hands down the best ecu I've ever used. Life makes syvecs as seen in the new gtrs.
Im running a costume Magneti Marelli SRT-EDL32/64 on my BNR34... together with Anti Lag system and various other independent systems & electronics,for example the turbochargers are fitted with a turbo speed sensor and the engine management system has maps based on throttle position and car speed which is used to find a suitable turbocharger speed and boost pressure for every condition. I use that and other various costume sensors around the car engine, transmission, front diff, rear diff, suspension, brakes, exhaust etc.. to run a fully independent self made software to constantly run diagnostics on real time as I drive and decide whether the engine and the electronics are safe and running within the parameters. If the system detect any issues or discrepancy let say that the combine info gather from the independent sensors and from the Marelli Ecu did not match his last scan due to a faulty sensor or a mechanical failure...it automatically pin point the problem and star taking preprogram meassures to either correct the issue if possible if not it will then go to save mode and prioritize to save the rest of the car including a full shutdown of it.
Lost count of all blood, sweat, tears, redbull & packs of cigarettes that when into programming and make it work. Call me paranoid if you want. But after spending so much money in that car...the least I can do was to try my best to protect my stupid investment.
By the way great article. Every body seems to talk about getting power and power and rarerly you heard or read what is possible to do to protect your investment other than leave it Stock.
Great article, this knowledge boost series is my most expected thing to look forward to read these days! This july-august i will build and tune my 1st forged engine and i will certainly will remember your classes!
Cheers I thought this article would be about rev limiters given the title
But I'm thinking about entering track events and will utilise most of this
Forged rods vs aluminum block. 944 track car met its 3 cylinder fate at the hands of a money shift. Engine fail story.
How about these oil pan doors ?;^P
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SzEslpHHFg
EliThanos my hero
Bigmac51fifty
For STIs the manual says 5w30 for normal conditions. I run 5w40 because #maximumattack. However, my oil pressure at idle went up about 5psi.
FelipeVergara
Thanks for this comment. I was doing a top speed run and watched the egt rise... So glad i had the guage.
tunerguy21 Literally saw this happen on a sled pull semi. But it didn't crack at the welds. It kind of just split in two.
mazdaspeeder86
Ignorance cost me an engine. It was my first car, bought it modified, didn't think to do research. The more info on this the better - hopefully someone will read it and avoid losing alot of money.
Haha!! No hero here..just a guy who sometimes think outside the box and this time it actually work.
Im currently working on another project that will soon be available for the public as the first line of product of my company and I guarantee that will blow everybodys mind.
My balalance shaft broke the my 1997 Galant getting tangled up in the timing belt and causing it to break then breakin a rod loose from its cap and blowing a hole in the block .So I would say that keeping track your belts is also a good thing to do . I love Speedhunters keep up the good work
JoeOlSoulR yes, there is no substitute for basic mechanical maintenance unfortunately!
John Key NZ great to have the prime minister posting here on SH
Good luck with those track events!
EliThanos with a sophisticated engine management system, usually the sky is the limit as to how smart you can be about protecting your engine. Of course all the strategies need to make sense too otherwise you may end up wasting a lot of time trying to track down why your engine isn't performing how you expect!
EliThanos thanks for the kind words. I hope this series of articles is finding it's mark in the Speedhunters audience.
Daimon sheltin you're right, if you have a weak engine then controlling the boost, particularly through the peak torque region, can pay dividends. Another trick I've used on a stock block 4G63 that went over 500 kw atw, was to purposely retard the timing through the peak torque region to reduce cylinder pressure.
Bigmac51fifty You need to be a little careful with this technique, although in principle I do tend to agree. If you're expecting a significant power increase over stock, it's possible that the stock oil specification may not provide sufficient film strength.
With todays modern engines running cam control though, the oil viscosity can have a large impact on how well the cam control system functions. A thicker grade of oil can slow down the response and cause drivability issues.
FelipeVergara I've tuned a couple of 4G63's for drag use that had no EGT and still went over 1000 whp with reliability. If I had my choice, for drag racing then I'd want EGT sensors. For circuit racing however it's nice to have but not essential.
quattrofeen you're right, the Life Racing products are cutting edge professional systems with a lot of flexibility. Life racing was sort of born out of Pectel initially so if you've dealt with a Pectel ECU, the LR stuff looks very familiar.
10thchamber for your build I would not be considering an 'off the shelf' or mail order tune.
You will want to have the engine properly tuned for your exact set of parts. I would recommend either a full standalone ECU - Your options for a quality product here are almost limitless these days and there are several 'plug & play options to simplify installation.
It's also worth finding a local tuner you can work with as with most projects of any magnitude will end up making multiple trips to the dyno as parts are modified and upgraded. This means the car will inevitably have to go on the dyno more than once to have the tune adjusted.
another great article! any chance we'll see another like this, albeit for diesels?
nugundam93 I'm not sure that we will be touching on diesels any time soon sorry. As far as engine protection strategies though, most of this article is applicable. Air fuel ratio is almost irrelevant on a diesel though as they respond almost the opposite way to a petrol engine. EGT is a better guide for tuning a maximum effort diesel engine and protection could be offered around that parameter.
@DeWeberis a proper baffled sump, or a sump with trap doors is a smart option. like I said in the article, these protection strategies are a safety system only and they aren't there to prevent the issue in the first place. If you're planning to track your car regularly then some oil system upgrades like a better sump and an oil cooler are almost essential in my opinion.
Fair enough, and your reply had great info
looking forward to your next article!
When your engine is being built paint the inside with Glyptol spray paint. Oil runs of it like ice. It gets the oil back in the pan much quicker. Install an oil scraper to remove the oil being slung around the crank-again gets oil in the pan much quicker. Somebody mentioned trap door oil pans highly recommended. And install an oil accumulater, like a canton or morroso. Last and not least spare no expense on a quality oil pump.
Andre Simon EliThanos Oh it is, I love this. We need more technical tips and tutorials. Do more and can you recommend any technical sites about cars, specifically engine assembly and disassembly?
In my 700+ hp R32 build I'm running several things to assist me in mitigating the risk of destroying my 2.5 year build. I'm running a Plex Tuning PBC Pro electronic boost controller. What's unique about it is that it will use a combination of rpm, EGT, gear and others in it's monitoring and boost control. I'm also running a water/meth injection system with a controller that also monitors the ECU. This way if there is an issue it can kill the motor with an over blast of fluid with no harm to any parts. I'm also running as mentioned a Canton turbo oil setup. This allows for constant oil pressure throughout the system. For the bottom end a full dry sump setup with a billet oil pan is also being machined.
Why spend the time and investment to only see your hard work destroyed because you skimped out on a few more bits.
Great job! I really enjoy reading these articles, as I am trying to better understand the world of tuning.
Thank you very much for your willingness, time, and effort that you put into these posts, I look forward to reading the next installment!
Excellent article. My fuel pressure strategy is a bit different then the one you have mentioned. I have a base fuel pressure parameter in the ECU and use fuel pressure differential to trigger a safety. for instance with my car the static fuel pressure is 45psi. The ecu knows at 10 psi MAP, or boost, my fuel pressure should be at 55psi. i give it a 10% deviation limit. I'm sure this has saved my motor at my first and second street circuit events. It was annoying to keep tripping the alarm but it helped me find the issues with m fuel system.
I also use an oil temp sensor to set a overheating limit for my oil and a coolant pressure sensor to keep an eye on my head gasket health. All these things take the guess work out of what is going on with the car and really pay for themselves when it comes time to diagnose a problem. The more data I can log the happier I am.
Keep up the good work guys!!
Boosted R32 Are you on facebook?
EliThanos I really like comments about people owning nissans and specially with RB series motors.. I am totally sick of people commenting RB's are bad and 2Jz's are good. They are going to swap everything with that mkiv motor they think they can race with. I am like one should understand and improve the defects rather moving on to a new motor. I personally like nissans and planning to own r34 soon but there is a huge community out there changing people's mind and making them confused and they think RB26 will be a bad investment if done.
Hello Mate.
Well I use to have a Ae86 with a 2JZ. So I had have both engines. I won't dare to say that one is better than the other. The RB is a awesome engine with a unquestionable Pedigree and records under his belt to Prove it and in my opinion a unique engine with character. A RB is like Jeremy Clarkson you just throw him power and more power..lol! The 2JZ well is a Toyota and is also a though cookie capable pf stupid amount of horsepower and realiable. If the RB is Clarkson....then the 2JZ is Chuck Noris it just never die.
It would really be useless to gave judgement about what engine is better... its as pointless as arguing whos better and more fun a Evo or a STI cause booth engines and cars are great in they're own way. I think the questions is what suit you best for your application and purpose as well as budget etc...
But just do what you like mate. No matter what other said is your project so follow your heart.
A couple of days ago, my son had an issue with his oil pressure when he took it to the shop for a car inspection. Now that they got that done, he went to the shop again and was informed that somehow the timing belt got damaged. It was quite odd but, maybe it had to do with the oil pressure or something in the car engine that went wrong. http://www.gcsuspension.com.au/comprehensive-full-undercar-inspection.php
Hello .. ive recently brought a used evo 2 .. its been modified with bov ..wastegate ..extractors ..cams ..pod and other stuff .. im sure its a hybrid turbo ... ive just recently got it out of the mitsibishi shop .. ive had a chat with them the other day ..they said theres nothing wrong ...the top ends fine ..and ive just had a bottom end rebuild ..im 800kms through my run in process and all has been well ( sensible driving) but last night i have noticed slower throttle response and it fells like its straining a bit .. i instantly parked it up and am going back to the shop this week .. motor still sounds good ..its just the lack of acceleration ... i dont know much about these cars but im wondering if its related to the airflow of the car / exhaust area /manifold ..as my exhaust is staight pipe ..or if its something to do with the turbo/turbo accessories area as it feels like loss of power ... im really not sure but i am taking it back to get looked at as the work should be guaranted . Im disapointed and would be thankful for any help ...cheers
the car was very good
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