Project GT-R: The Power Upgrades (Almost) Begin

It’s been a long time coming, but it’s all beginning now for Project GT-R. Sort of…

It’s the nature of the tuning game I suppose; when you set off on a project there are always things that are going to get in the way of progress.

It all began at Do-Luck in Yokohama a few days before the recent R’s Meeting. There, Ito-san and I laid out all the parts that over the course of a couple of days we should have fitted to the GT-R.


Many of you would have already seen most of these bits; I’ve been hanging on to them for years as I slowly collect what is needed for a decent first step upgrade.

Back in 2013, you might remember that I sent off the Tomei Arms turbine housings, along with the Expreme manifolds and outlet pipe, to Martelius in Finland for ceramic coating. The idea here was to help keep engine room temperature on the hot side as low as possible, therefore eliminating the need for ugly exhaust wraps which are sometimes blamed for causing cracks in stainless steel manifolds.

Since you saw the first bunch of parts that Tomei sent over, more have arrived. So, with the turbo upgrade and Tomei Procams, plus Tomei cam pulleys and timing belt, the fuelling obviously needed to be addressed too. I had already sourced a set of R35 GT-R injectors but nothing beyond those, so Tomei stepped in with one of its billet fuel rails, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a 260lph in-tank fuel pump to provide enough flow.


Except, I overestimated the actual ability of the R35 injectors. While these are rated at 570cc/min, for my upgrades I’d still be running them at a pretty high duty cycle. On top of this, I do have additional stages of upgrades planned for the engine, hence the long wait in getting started. So after much talking with Ito-san and Ennio Rancati of Brewed Motorsport (the guy that advises Under Suzuki on his MoTeC engine management system), who would be taking care of mapping the new Haltech Elite 2500, we decided that we might as well do this fuelling right the first time, and then not have to worry about it.

That obviously means yet another delay, but with how long this stage has taken already, it’s really not that much of an issue for me. Over the past few days I’ve been chatting to Tony Palo of T1 Race Development in Texas, the company behind Injector Dynamics, and have agreed on a solution that will work in the long run.

On top of all of this, you can also see the Tomei 1.2mm metal headgasket – a must on an RB26 when pushing over 1.1bar (16.1psi) to 1.2bar (17.6psi) of boost – and right there in the back of the image above image are HKS air flow meter delete (dummy) pipes. Thanks to the built-in MAP sensor on the Elite 2500 I can finally get rid of of the hot-wire based system and not have that silly restriction in the way. A Tomei Expreme titanium cat replacement pipe will also ensure that big flames exit at the rear.

So it’s all coming together. I just need a little sprinkle of extra patience right now, but soon enough I’ll be able to start exploiting the potential these RB26s have hidden within.

Dino Dalle Carbonare
Instagram: speedhunters_dino



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Looking at all those parts like a kid in a candy shop.


Are you building the engine also dino?what goals are you targeting right now?thumbs up on your build.


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Great choice in parts so far, proven quality and reliability. Glad you connected with Tony, T1/ID is the real deal. We opted for their 1700s for our build. They are really 'easy' to tune and scale, so good call.
Did you reach out to the Radium guys for a proper surge tank? Nuke is good too, whichever you can get more readily. What are you doing in terms of oiling improvements?
Have you fitted the Tomei galley restrictors? Do you have a good AOS? Lastly, I would strongly suggest a Nitto or Spool head drain, big insurance for a small price! ;)


Should have gone big single. Proven to be the better option for RBs


@BigDose Only if max HP is the goal.  From what I've seen of Dino's build so far, I'd wager he's more about keeping his powerband and response similar to stock, as opposed to all-out power.  A guy like Dino is probably shooting for somewhere in the 500-550 hp range.  Enough for the car to shine, but not enough to break all the time.


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@Deep Dishin It it's all a matter of preference really, but the truth is that a properly spec'd single can hit as hard or harder than stock-location twins. Again, this is with all due respect to your end goals as Simply P astutely mentioned.
This video does a pretty good job of analyzing both camps in depth:


Dino is villanous, here is why


Will all these mods somehow affect reliability?


Dino - given the scope of your other article, are you 'worried' about the future value of the car from a collectability standpoint?  Granted I don't see anything here that isn't really reversible, but still, curious to know.


Even with a 500hp goal a properly specd single will provide better response. Watch the comparison video posted below.


icobird The first step will just be simple bolt ons. Maybe further down the line I'll tackle that too.


Simply P That is quite correct for now, but at the same time what @BigDose says can be true when you choose your turbo and engine spec wisely


EvolveWRC Well not really, within reason of course. If you don't go crazy with the boost and do regular maintenance the RB26 will be more than reliable at this point. For piece of mind one should and an uprated oil pump, sump extension and N1 water pump with a larger radiator but that's all coming down the line as well. I just like to do things step by step to feel and enjoy the difference.


@revtil9k Not really. Ever since the beginning the main point of me having this car is to enjoy it. That's why I only use it to have fun, most of the time it just sits waiting for me to free up to take it out for a proper drive. As of late however all my driving has been back and forth to tuning shops haha


Lavoro fantastico Dino :)




mircok22 Grazie!


Supra bummed they won't be using the ft-1 design concept. Gotta say this body looks a bit underwhelming, but we all knew the ft-1 was too wild to come to fruition.


ps. yeah, they should have definitely just dropped an inline 6 w/ a iron block in it. That make it TOTALLY RAD. the 90's are so hot rn.


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earmenau caron sleeved aluminium alloy v6 works too


speedhunters_dino before you get that N1 water pump, check this thread out. There is some sound speculation that the six-blade impeller and anti-cavitation disk are actually not great for low-rpm, low engine temp driving.
The idea being that the N1 pump was designed and employed for sustained high-rpm conditions during competition and track driving, and that its flow may be overwhelming to the factory cooling system under daily-driven conditions.


speedhunters_dino Simply P @BigDose the video sums it pretty nicely, given the power parameters. On the RB30 3.4 stroker we are putting together, the owner's goal was massive power, but retaining low-rpm drivability and almost-instant torque. Tall order!
That being said, we decided on just about the biggest, most responsive twin set-up we could find, which in this case was the Full-Race twin EFR 7163 kit. Of course, a big single would have given us the end number and crazy top-end, but that wasn't the plan.

This is with their 'smallest' turbos, needless to say, we are eager for the results...




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Dino does it still have the m3 style mirrors and do you have a power goal in mind?


Why would you delete my original comment calling you a troll? Do you not want other people to agree with me that you are just trolling people with these little teaser bits about your gtr build? Do you not want people to catch on to the fact that you are just trying to generate more site traffic with these little snippets even though you don't need to? Just complete this stage of the build, write an article about it, show some cool pictures, and at the end you can put a teaser to the next installation of the build.


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I'm curious about your decision to go with Tomei vs other brands like HKS, or Trust. I can't wait to see the new parts dropped into your car... maybe at the end of this you'll need a clear wrap to protect your paint from all the hard driving you'll be doing later!!!


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