Now to continue with the second part of the build up of the Twins Turbo black Supra. In case you missed it, be sure to check part one of the build first.
This is the rear mount that supports the radiator and the intercooler, after welding on the bench.
The same mount supporting the rad, and IC, in its position on the project.
Front view of both coolers mocked up, it’s starting to look like something.
Once the intercooler was mounted, it was time to move on to one of my favorite parts of a project like this, the charge pipes. Here is the turbo to IC pipe tacked together, it transitions from 3” at the turbo side to 4” at the IC. Normally we would only use a 4” pipe on the turbo side on a drag car, but the overall short length of the system would balance the diameter, equaling the normal volume of a say 3” inch pipe that is 4.5’ long.
Here’s the pipe mocked up with the IC and turbo.
I'm removing just a little bit … got to be right.
Now that the charge pipe is in place, I can move on to making the IC end tanks. Paper mock up of the shape, and a piece of .090 3000 series aluminum cooling after being annealed.
Round edges are much stronger than a straight bend, that and metal work fascinates me. We chose to take the time and do it right, here I'm using a T dolly and my trusty rawhide mallet to roll an edge.
After hammering out a top and bottom for the end tank, the center was bent up and welded in place, again using 3000 series aluminum .090.
The hot side end tank finished, welded inside and out, welds blended and scotchbrighted for a clean look.
Here’s the hot side of the IC mocked up, looking good man.
Same deal on the cool side of the IC, lots of hammering later we now have a top and bottom tacked in place.
The side was welded in place and blended in, discharge to the throttle is seen being mocked up.
A cool ”fish mouth” cut provides a big gulp for the hungry engine.
Cool side end tank at 90%.
Overall charge cooler system mocked up.
Here’s Carlos finishing the mounting of the blow off valve to the cool side tank.
Once all that room was taken by the charge pipes, it was time to start using whatever little space that was left for an air filter. We're pretty big on air filtration at the shop, something learned doing competitive road racing.
Here’s the 5” air filter pipe snaking its way to what will become the air filter box.
We secured a filter that is normally for a bus, it can double as a interesting hat too.
OK, air filter box is coming around; fitting this thing behind the head light and what not was a challenge.
Air filter on the chassis.
The sides of the filter box are tacked in place, protecting the filter from tire debris and external heat.
Air filter looks GTG, we left the front open so if a plastic bag or similar was blocking the inlet on the nose of the car, it would still be able to run, and not be” out of the fight”.
Now that the basics of the front of the car had been laid out, we could now start on the ducting. We learned a long time ago, that proper ducting will make the difference in running a high HP car in any form of competition. Here’s a shot of the basic frame that will support the main air duct. There is a corresponding frame that attaches to the nose, and fits neatly inside this rectangle frame you see here.
Sides of the duct are in place. They are made from 18 gauge (.125) 6061 aluminum.
The frame on the bench. You can see the kleco’s we use to temporally hold everything together, they are normally used in aircraft fabrication, and are really handy when working with sheet metal.
Back to the interior, the rear seat area now houses the ECU condo. And the fire suppression system which will mount to the stand on the driver’s side.
The main duct now incorporates a divider in the middle section, and a scoop that will funnel air off the splitter to the radiator. According to the aero people this is a high pressure zone and should provide solid cooling at speed.
A rear shot of the duct again. The top will feed the IC, and every air molecule will be forced to go across the core. No waste.
Final mock up on the bench.
And on the car.
No wasted airflow here.
Since we removed all factory wiring, we could make a nice mount for our MoTec E888, which will collect the data from the EGT probes mounted it each exhaust runner, and send them to the ECU. Normally this area is taken up by a large relay and fuse box.
There are actually two oil coolers in play on this setup, a C&R heat exchanger behind the rad. and a conventional oil cooler mounted here, front drivers side. We made a frame once the cooler was mounted for proper ducting.
Some sheet metal in play here making the duct come around.. more kleco’s.
The duct mocked up on the chassis.
My brother is always responsible for all the plumbing on the projects that pass through the shop, and during heavy fabrication time he will request we make mounting flanges/ bulkheads ETC for his plumbing. Here is a bulk head array on the bottom of the chassis that will support the oil and fuel lines running from the front to rear of the car.
More plumbing pron, oil / fuel lines.
Here’s Grim using our brown and miller crimp machine to make some lines up, we like to use the best materials and components available. Brown and Miller is the top of the line as far as race car plumbing goes , ask NASCAR, ALMS, F1 and us, light weight, dead reliable. Yes please.
Ahhh gratuitous engine pron, I always enjoy building engines, especially the 2jZ. This example we have here has a billet crank stroker, custom rods, custom pistons, billet main’s, custom rings, custom bearings, custom coatings etc. We came from a drag racing background which gave us good knowledge on how to make big power. When we transitioned to road racing, we learned how to make that power reliable long term.
Fully assembled and on the stand ready to go, you can see the 5 stage dry sump oil pump and crimped/ shielded Brown and Miller plumbing,
There’s a lot more we did but you get the idea. After we were finished welding and grinding, we disassembled the whole thing and sent it out to Auto Explosion in Gardena CA for paint. When it returned it was assembled for real this time, the challenge here was not scratching anything. Hopefully you fellow Speedhunters enjoy the final product.